DIY Beach Kaftan Sewing Pattern in Cotton Pima Lawn

A lightweight poncho-style cover-up is a simple way to enjoy a favorite fabric print. Wear it loose over a swimsuit, add ties at the sides or use buttons and loops for a little more coverage.

Petal Drift printed on The Textile District’s Cotton Pima Lawn suits the soft shape. The fabric folds over the shoulders, with an opening for the head and no separate sleeves. Choose a shorter length for the beach or a longer version to wear by the pool.

This project is a starting point for your own cover-up. Decide on the length and width you prefer, then check the fit before finishing the neckline and adding closures.

Shop Petal Drift Fabric by the Yard
Choose your colorway and select Cotton Pima Lawn for a lightweight finish.

Choose Your Finished Length

Measure from the top of your shoulder down to where you want the cover-up to end. Use your own measurements for a knee-length, calf-length or maxi version, since those lengths vary with height.

The fabric runs from the front hem, over the shoulders and down to the back hem. To calculate the length needed for the body:

Double your desired finished shoulder-to-hem length, then add 2" for hemming.

Divide that total by 36 to convert inches to yards. Round up to an available ordering increment, and allow extra fabric for ties, binding, a matching scarf or careful print placement.

• 40" finished length: 82" of fabric for the body.
• 50" finished length: 102" of fabric for the body.
• 55" finished length: 112" of fabric for the body.

These examples include 1" at each lower edge for a double-turn hem. They do not include extra fabric for accessories or closures.

Decide How Wide to Make It

Cotton Pima Lawn has a printable width of 58.5". You can use that width as your starting point or trim it for less fabric around the arms.

Before cutting, drape the fabric over your shoulders or compare the width with a loose cover-up you already like. Consider how far it falls down your arms and how much coverage you want at the sides. Narrow side hems will reduce the finished width slightly.

If you plan to add side closures, check that the front and back meet comfortably around your body. Leave enough room to sit, move your arms and walk without pulling at the closures.

Fabric and Supplies

• Cotton Pima Lawn in the length calculated for your project
• Coordinating sewing thread
• Lightweight bias binding for the neckline
• Fabric scissors, measuring tape and fabric marker
• Pins or sewing clips
• Sewing machine and a needle suitable for lightweight woven cotton
• Iron and ironing board
• Optional fabric ties, buttons and loops

Our natural-fiber fabrics are printed with fiber-reactive dyes, then steamed, washed and dried. No additional prewash is needed before sewing. Press out any shipping creases before measuring and cutting.

Check the Print Direction

A tossed or non-directional design works well with this construction. Because the fabric folds over the shoulders, a one-way motif will appear upside down on either the front or the back.

Petal Drift’s scattered botanicals suit the flowing shape. You can also browse our botanical fabrics and small floral fabrics. Check the individual design’s direction and scale before choosing.

Cut the Body and Mark the Shoulder Fold

Cut one rectangle to your planned width and total length. Fold it in half crosswise, bringing the two lower hems together. The fold forms the shoulder line.

Mark the center of the shoulder fold. This will be the center of your neckline. Identify which half of the fabric you want at the front, especially if you are positioning a particular part of the print.

Make the Neck Opening

Mark a small, centered neckline that extends onto both the front and back, with a shallower curve at the back. Use the neckline of a comfortable woven garment as a guide, remembering that woven cotton does not stretch like a T-shirt.

Cut conservatively and keep both sides symmetrical. Enlarge the opening gradually until it passes comfortably over your head and sits where you want it on your shoulders. Avoid forcing a small opening over your head, which can tear the fabric.

If you prefer a smaller neckline, a short finished front slit with a button-and-loop closure is another option. Plan the slit finish before cutting it.

Finish the neckline with lightweight bias binding, following the binding’s application instructions. A narrow finish keeps the edge soft. Take care not to stretch the opening while sewing, and test your method on a scrap first.

Hem the Outside Edges

Finish each long side edge with a narrow double-turn hem: turn 1/4" to the wrong side, press, turn another 1/4" and stitch close to the inner fold.

Try on the cover-up and check the front and back lengths. At each lower edge, turn under 1/2", press, then turn another 1/2" and stitch. This uses the hem allowance included in the yardage calculation.

Keep the corners flat and press as you work. The lightweight lawn needs only a simple finish.

Leave the Sides Open or Add Closures

Open sides give the cover-up the loosest drape. If you prefer more coverage, add ties or buttons and loops after the edges are hemmed.

For fabric ties: try on the cover-up and mark corresponding positions on the front and back side edges, below the arm openings. Attach one tie to each edge so they meet at the side. You can add another pair lower down if needed.

For buttons and loops: place a button on one edge and a corresponding loop on the other. Use small reinforcement patches on the inside where closures attach, since lightweight lawn can pull under strain.

Pin or baste the closures in position first. Check the fit while sitting and moving your arms before sewing them permanently.

For a long or maxi version, leave the lower sides open far enough to take a full stride. Keep ties short enough that they will not trail or catch underfoot.

Add an Optional Matching Headscarf

If you would like a coordinating scarf, include extra fabric in your cutting plan. A 30" square finishes at approximately 29" square when hemmed with two 1/4" turns on each edge.

Check the size against a scarf you already wear before cutting. Fold the finished square diagonally and tie it beneath or behind your hair.

See our How to Sew a Bandana or Head Scarf tutorial for more sizing and finishing ideas.

Let the Fabric Set the Mood

Cotton Pima Lawn weighs 2.21 oz/yd² and has a smooth hand and soft drape. It makes a light layer over swimwear; coverage will depend on the print, colorway and lighting.

A floral gives the cover-up a different character from a geometric or abstract design. Keep the construction simple and choose a print you will enjoy wearing.

For fabric weights, printable widths, care and pricing, visit Our Fabrics.

Explore Petal Drift Colorways
Choose Cotton Pima Lawn and order enough yardage for your preferred length and finishing details.